Turtle135 wrote:Had one thought. You could get a spool of Trilene XT 14 pound test for about $ 6.00 to $ 7.00. You might consider practicing with less expensive mono in the beginning instead of inadvertantly turning the braid you want to use into a rats nest with a bad overrun.
This is what I originally suggested to the guy at Gander Mountain, putting on some cheap heaver mono line just to practice with. But he came back and said that he found that it was easier to learn with heaver braid. I know since I started using braid on my spinning setup, I absolutely love it, so I agreed with him.
CB Kayak 02 wrote:I just switched over a baitcasters for a few setups this year am I'm very happy with the results. It took a little while to get used to, but now I prefer my baitcaster in a lot of situations.
Although I use a left handed bait caster because to me it is more natural and feels right after using spinning reels my whole life.
I’m going to have to see which feels more natural to me. When I use my spinning reel, I typically cast with my right hand, switch positioning, and then reel with my right. Little strange, I know, but that’s what feels comfortable to me. So I’m wondering if maybe a left handed baitcaster is actually going to be what I need. I’ll find out when I get some time to practice. I have 90 days no questions asked to exchange my setup so I’m not concerned.
Mr_Scrogg wrote:I'll agree with above, heavier Mono is cheaper, and probably a tad better to learn on. Besides, if it's a crankbait rod, the stretch in the mono won't be ripping the trebles out of the fish's mouth.
Start with 4 brakes, opposite one another, and when you get comfortable, start dialing them back. I think I ran 2 all them time, unless I was fishing lighter lures. Then I'd leave one on.
Good luck and don't get discouraged. We all have professional overruns.
Yeah, I plan on starting with 4 brakes, opposite one another as this is what was suggested by the guy at Gander and from what I’ve seen on YouTube. It was also recommended to turn the tension up too.
@Hanover_Yakker, thanks for the advice! I’m absolutely going to follow what you said bout setting the break/resistance so that the lure only moves when you shake it a little. I saw some reviews to do that also. If it’s so much easier to cast when the break/resistance is high, why don’t a majority of the people just use this setup compared to no break/resistance? Is it because with no break/resistance, you can cast further?
oubassman wrote:Congrats on the set-up. Baitcasters are great for cranks and spinnerbaits.
I'll 2nd or 3rd the suggestion on mono instead of braid, even when you're done "practicing" and feel comfortable. The one benefit of mono with cranks was mentioned, which was the "stretch" that will allow you a little cushion with cranks. The same can be applied to spinnerbaits when you're reeling fast & the bass just crush the spinnerbait.
I personally like the 12# P-line CXX in moss green on my MH Mojo spinnerbait rod. I use that just for spinnerbaits & love the setup.
I’ll definitely consider this type of line. It seems popular

Since I started using the Power Pro braid on my spinning reel, I’m not sure if I can go back
@Jiggy, I’ll be sure to remember not to pick out the backlashes. Even If I don’t get a backlash at first (which I’m sure I will), I’m going to force backlashes just so that I know how to get them out. I’ve also saw this technique of putting your thumb on the spool and turning the handle about 5 times. Then pull the line out until you feel it knot again, and then repeat the process.
Thanks for the responses everyone. Every bit helps but as everyone has stated, it's going to come down to practice, practice, practice!!